STEP CUTS

Step-cut gems are generally cut to show their colour rather than fire or brilliance. In gemstones that show pleochroism, the gem is oriented and cut to show the best colour, when viewed through the table facet. sapphires and other gems that may show a colour banding are oriented so that the banding is parallel to the steps of the cut and cannot be seen clearly through the table. If there is an area of a stronger colour, it is best placed toward the base of the gemstone, deep within the pavilion, so that the colour appears to flood the whole stone when viewed through the table facet.

The step cut has a square or rectangular table facet and girdle, surrounded by a series of parallel four-sided facets. The number of facets is deter­mined by the size of the gem. In brittle gems, such as emerald, the corners may be easily damaged, so they are usually removed during cutting. The resulting cut is called the emerald cut or modified step-cut. As more of the corner is removed, the gem nears the outline of a regular octagon and may be called an octagonal cut.